Opened: The theatre opened March 6, 1876. It was initially called the Academy of Music and managed by Thomas Maguire. An 1882 theatre list gives 932-936 Market as the address. This 1879 photo is from the Jesse B. Cook Collection at the UC Berkeley Bancroft Library. The building also contained a hotel, opening about a year later. Mark Ellinger commented on the project:
Tenderloin historian Peter M. Field offers more background:
"The opening of Baldwin's Academy of Music in 1876 inside the still unfinished Baldwin Hotel heralded the beginning of the move of the original theatre district to this area. Baldwin's was followed by the Tivoli Garden on Eddy Street between Powell and Mason in 1879 (renamed the Tivoli Opera three years later). After that, new theaters like the Alcazar, Fischer's, the Orpheum, the Wigwam, and others opened along Ellis, O'Farrell, and Geary streets.
"These venues attracted restaurants and saloons and hotels to the neighborhood, and those, in their turn, attracted vice. And so it wasn't until the 1880s, when new theatres, restaurants, and hotels were established in the neighborhood, that vice began moving southwest from the Portsmouth Square area and Grant Ave. and their prostitution alleys, and into the new theater, restaurant, and hotel neighborhood north of Market and Powell streets. By the 1890s, it was a theatre, hotel, restaurant, and vice district called the Tenderloin."
Thanks, Peter. He is the author of the 2018 Sutton Publishing book "The Tenderloin District of San Francisco Through Time."
Architect: Samuel C. Bugbee. The building was described on page 12 of the 1876 city directory in a section detailing the year's "Building Improvements":
Seating: It was a two-balcony house with capacity of about 1,700. The 1884 "Social Manual of San Francisco" came up with 1,036 on the lower two levels with 176 in the orchestra, 72 in the twelve proscenium boxes, 310 in the dress circle at the rear of the main floor, 40 in the ten mezzanine boxes, and 438 in the 1st balcony, also called the family circle. They don't mention the 2nd balcony (aka the gallery) as none of the better people reading their book would be sitting up there. Thanks to Glenn Koch for the data.
The 1st balcony seating chart from the 1890 Blue Book. The book doesn't give us a chart for the 2nd balcony, commonly called the gallery. Thanks to Glenn Koch for the images from the book in his collection. There are diagrams of the three seating levels and a discussion of the exit situation on page 8 of the 1889 program from "Little Lord Fauntleroy." It's reproduced at the bottom of the page.
"He was a 'character' even about San Francisco, where unusual types were common... One day, as I was passing the lot adjoining the stable where he was employed, I found him washing a horse. He greeted me, whimsically bemoaned the fate which made him what he termed a 'horse butler' and then amused me with this prediction: "...Well, some day I'll have the biggest and best theater in California - and when I do you'll be my star actor." The incongruity of the words caused me intense inward mirth but I covered my amusement.. I bade him a quick goodbye, little realizing how prophetic were his words. A few months later came news that 'Lucky' Baldwin had justified his nickname and had won thousands at the gambling tables. The next two years made his name a household word in San Francisco, for everything he touched turned to gold.
"Then one day the city's admiration turned to derision, for 'Lucky' had bought a group of undeveloped lots out in the sand dunes at Powell and Market streets where, he said, he intended to build a great hotel and theater. Realty men condemned the plan as 'crazy' declaring that the city had stopped developing in that direction. Scores of business men pleaded with Baldwin to forego his project. Baldwin's arch-enemy in those days was Thomas Maguire, a cab-driver, whose rise to riches had been nearly as spectacular as that of Baldwin. These two never could agree, even on the apparently obvious question of whether it was day or night.
"So when Baldwin bought the parcel of ground, Maguire promptly sought out the surveyors, discovered that there was a triangular strip which encroached on the Baldwin property, and promptly bought it! In explanation it will be remembered that the early surveys were faulty in many cases, and there were hundreds of such mixups. Eventually, when Baldwin began preparations to build, he found himself blocked by Maguire, who would neither buy nor sell. 'Lucky' raved frightfully and threatened all sorts of dire things - but ended by taking Maguire into partnership with him on the deal!
Thomas Maguire vs. Baldwin: We get a slightly different take in Lawrence Estevan's "Tom Maguire; Dr. David G. (Yankee) Robinson; M.B. Leavitt," completed in 1938 as part of a Works Progress Administration project. The copy in the collection of the San Francisco Public Library is reproduced on Internet Archive. In his chapter titled "A Deal With 'Lucky' Baldwin," he discusses the theatre:
"Fortunately, Maguire, in the midst of calamities,
succeeded in interesting 'Lucky' Baldwin, the famous San
Francisco millionaire, in entering upon a theatrical enterprise. Together, they built the Baldwin Hotel and the
Academy of Music in 1876. Baldwin and Maguire were never
very friendly -- lions are solitary creatures -- and it was
young David Belasco who became Tom's secretary and acted as go-between in their business dealings. Winter, in his 'Life of Belasco,' remarks with amusement the partnership in the enterprise of Baldwin, an ex-hostler, and Maguire, former cab driver. He states that they
were not on the best of terms and that Belasco served as intermediary in the negotiations, which were complicated by the
fact that Maguire owned the land selected as a site and was
listed on the bills as 'proprietor' of the new house."
Estevan cites a passage from 'Annals of the San Francisco Stage," an unpublished manuscript compiled by the Federal Theatre Project in 1937:
The original Maguire's Opera House had by this time been demolished. The "smaller Opera House" noted in the article was a venue at 318 Bush St. that he had renamed. It had opened as Congress Hall in 1865. Later it was known as the Standard Theatre. The 'New Theatre' mentioned was a house that had opened in 1868 as the Alhambra at 325 Bush St. which Maguire called, after a rebuild, Maguire's New Theatre. It was later known as the Bush St. Theatre.
Other Maguire venues at different times included the Jenny Lind Theatre, in three versions from 1850 to 1852 and another house using the Academy of Music name on Pine St. near Montgomery, running only from 1864 to 1867.
"Shortly after the lease was consummated the buildings on the lot were knocked down at auction on condition of removal after purchase. ('Auction Sales,' Daily Alta California, March 28, 1875, page 3; 'Brevities,' Alta California, April 3, 1875, page 1). Construction began in May of that year. ('A $650,000 Building on Market, Ellis and Powell,' The Real Estate Circular, May 1875). This was around the same time that William Ralston was building the Palace Hotel just three long blocks down Market Street from The Baldwin site. (David Lavender, 'Nothing Seemed Impossible,' American West Publishing, 1975, page 361)."
The opening: It opened March 6, 1876 with "Richard III" starring Barry Sullivan. Thomas Maguire was the initial manager. During nearly the first year of the theatre's operation Peter M. Field notes that "theatre-goers had the unique experience of attending shows in a theatre inside a building that was still under construction." He continues:
"Moreover, the first weeks of the theatre were marred by several stumbling blocks. Newspapers loved its bijou design, and celebrated the triumph of its opening with Barry Sullivan as the Duke of Gloucester in 'Richard III.' But they reported complaints about the best seats being sold before ticket sales were opened to the public. ('Footlight Flashes,' San Francisco Chronicle, March 5, 1876, page 8). First nighters had to brave a storm to attend, though the play opened to a full house. Yet the papers criticized the theatre as having too few aisles, causing patrons to have to squeeze past too many others to reach their seats.
"But the most serious criticism was that the exits, which were on Market Street even though the theatre was on Ellis, were too narrow and crowded and would delay the emptying of the theatre in the event of an emergency. ('Amusements,' Chronicle, March 7, page 1; 'Amusements,' Daily Alta California, March 7, page 1). In those fire-prone days it didn't take much to panic an audience into flight, and the result was that patrons stayed away in droves after the first week or two. ('Danger Ahead,' Alta California, March 22, page 1). Baldwin responded by hiring a crew of workers who worked 24/7 for a day or two ripping out seats to make more aisles and an additional exit to Ellis St. from the theatre, which the newspapers publicized. ('Amusements,' Chronicle, March 24, page 3; 'The Alterations In Baldwin’s Academy of Music,' Alta California, March 24, page 1; 'A Safe Building,' Chronicle, March 26, page 5).
"There was a
third exit on Powell Street, but the newspaper accounts aren't clear on
if this was built before or after the theatre's opening. Audiences did
resume their attendance and Sullivan's six weeks of Shakespeare and
other plays ('Footlight Flashes,' Chronicle, April 9, 1876, page 5) drew
good reviews ('Dramatic Clippings,' Alta California, April 16, page 1;
'Footlight Flashes,' Chronicle, April 16, page 5) and large crowds
('Footlight Flashes,' Chronicle, April 2, page 5).
"However,
the theatre's jewel box design came at a price: at least one playgoer
was reported as saying, 'that his chair was just about large enough for a
canary.' ('Dramatic Clippings,' Alta California, April 9, 1876, page
1). There were also numerous complaints about hack drivers aggressively
soliciting exiting patrons at the Market St. entrance and refusing to
take no for an answer. ('Hackmen’s Insolence,' Chronicle, April 18, page
3). In addition, attendance slacked some towards the end of Sullivan's
stint. ('Amusements,' Chronicle, April 19, 1876, page 3).
Thomas Maguire's tenure as manager of the Baldwin didn't last long. He produced occasional shows there as late as 1882. Lawrence Estevan has some details:
"But the trend was still downward and Tom Maguire could decipher the handwriting on the wall in 1877. After spasmodic offerings at his three theatres during the first months of the year, he announced retrenchments. On April 1st he reported that his Opera House had been leased to Billy Emerson on a two-year lease, and was to be known as Emerson's Opera House. Here Emerson opened on April 23, offering his minstrels. On April 1st it was announced that the Alhambra was also to be re-titled. The Bush Street Theatre opened on April 7 under the management of Titus and Locke. The first offering was burlesque by the Salisbury Troubadours.
"The Shut-Down of Baldwin's - Baldwin's Academy had closed ingloriously by April, and young Belasco, former right-hand man of Maguire, had in February been enlisted by a new variety house known as Egyptian Hall to write, direct, and act in specialty plays in conjunction with 'illusions.' Maguire was deserted by fortune and the public. On and off, however, Maguire continued to produce plays at the Baldwin until 1882. During this period the relations between Maguire and Baldwin became more and more strained. Baldwin was forced to cover heavy losses at the theatre and Maguire was continually gambling in an effort to keep the enterprise going. Baldwin finally withdraw his support and Maguire's management was at an end. From that time until his death in 1896, his activities in the theatre world became increasingly negligible."
"All the world's a stage, and it may be added that San Francisco stages furnish the most varied performances in all the world... Easily recognizable as one of the favorite resorts in San Francisco of all lovers of high-class amusement is the Baldwin Theater, situated on Market street, between Powell and Stockton. With an ample and handsomely decorated entrance fronting on the busiest thoroughfare of our city, with a seating capacity of 1600, without a bad seat in the entire auditorium, a stage perfectly appointed in every detail, with numerous additional exits and with every modern convenience provided for the comfort of its patrons, it is justly admitted to be a model theater.
"The Baldwin is, and has been for the past four years, under the direction of Al Hayman, the lessee, and the high class of attractions offered in the past and the notable engagements announced for the future form the best possible encomiums upon his ability. The past season has been one of unusual brilliancy and the prospects for the coming promise even better things. The past season, to be brief, witnessed the notable engagements of Salvini, Mary Anderson, Mme. Modjeska, A. M. Palmer's company, the Duff Opera Company and others; but it is the announcements for the coming season that are odf greatest interest.
"The theater will reopen on January 10th with the Emma Abbot Grand English Opera Company, after which will appear in rapid succession Clara Morris, Edwin Booth, the Thalia Opera Company of eighty artists direct from the Thalia Theater, New York; Mme. Sarah Bernhardt, Henry Dixey and the entire Adonis company, Augustin Daly's company, A.M. Palmer's company, the Duff Opera Company, Rose Coghlan, Margaret Mather and others. Certainly this is an array of standard attractions of which both the San Francisco public and Mr. Hayman may well be proud."
"'The character of its owner [Baldwin] prevented it from enjoying the cachet of social approval which the Palace claimed from the beginning."
The Oscar Lewis book 'Bay Window Bohemia,' Doubleday, 1956, page 78:
"[Baldwin’s] 'cash settlements on parting from various ladies of the theater were said to have set new standards of liberality,' and these affairs took place in the hotel itself, where he lived."
From Robert O’Brien's 'This Is San Francisco,' Chronicle Books, 1994, pages 234-235:
"... 'a wholesale liquor dealer attached the hotel safe and its contents for an unpaid bill of $9000.' Jim Marvin, chief clerk of the hotel, quoted in C. B. Glasscock’s 'Lucky Baldwin,' recalled: 'Another time he was so badly pressed for cash that he literally pleaded with the Bank of California for a loan of one hundred thousand dollars. The hotel was mortgaged and I guess everything he owned was in the same fix. The bank wouldn’t give him the money . . . We went to the bank together and he made a proposition that all the receipts of the hotel should be impounded in the safe under my absolute control until they amounted to enough to pay off his note for one hundred thousand dollars. On that arrangement the bank gave him the money . . . The hotel was losing a lot of money. Two or three times while I was there, between 1877 and 1882, I remember the help struck because they weren’t paid their wages. Sometimes the management had to get up and rustle up the pay roll before we could serve a meal or get the beds made.':
Peter adds: "There were just too many luxury hotel rooms for a town the size of San Francisco, and entire wings in both hostelries were closed off and unused. Thus, when Baldwin had six rooms of his hotel taken out to increase the space for the theater, it was no sacrifice."
A post-1883 view of the theatre that appeared on the Facebook page Lost San Francisco with the comment that he businesses along the Market Street side sold the finest art goods and luxury items. The photo appears in Bennett Hall's Flickr album SF Market St.
The same cover design in use for an August 1889 program. The production was a two week engagement "Romeo and Juliet" starring Margaret Mather "supported by J. B. Studley and her own company." The cover image from the Museum of Performance and Design Performing Arts Library appears on Calisphere.
Thanks to Bennett Hall for this terrific c.1890 look east on Market that appeared on his Facebook page San Francisco Images. Hall noted that the hotel had 595 rooms with the 168-foot hexagonal dome containing five stories reserved exclusively for ladies. The photo also made an appearance on the page Lost San Francisco.
Theatre wise, the block at the left in post-earthquake years was the site of the Esquire, Telenews and Pix theatres. It's now the site of Halladie Plaza.
A c.1890 look east on Market from Mason St. toward the Baldwin. The photo is from the UC Bancroft Library. Thanks to Mark Ellinger for locating it in the collection.
Thanks to Bob Ristelhueber for this ad he found in an 1895 book. It appeared as a post on the BAHT Facebook page.
A rare look at the theatre's entrance before the fire. The 1896 photo comes from the collection of Jack Tillmany.
The hotel dining room. Thanks to Jack Tillmany for the photo from his collection.
An 1890s photo from Stephen Gennerich appearing on the Facebook page A Tahoe and Northern Nevada Historic Photographic Portfolio.
E.J. "Lucky" Baldwin's luck changed 1898 when his hotel and its theatre went up in flames. It was all uninsured. The site sat vacant for several years and in 1900 construction started on the Flood Building. This shot of the Market St. side of the building is on Calisphere from the Museum of Performance and Design Performing Arts Library. At least 20 died in the fire.
A fire photo from the UC Bancroft Library that was located in their collection by Mark Ellinger. He comments that after the fire newspapers started referring to Baldwin as "the former millionaire." Note the "Concerts Nightly" sign on the first floor at the corner.
Emiliano Echeverria noted in a comment on the San Francisco History Facebook page:
Another 1898 post-fire view. At the left we're looking up Powell St. Thanks to Stephen Gennerich for the photo on the page A Tahoe and Northern Nevada Historic Photographic Portfolio.
A closer look at the fire damage along the Market St. side of the building. Thanks to Jack Tillmany for the photo from his collection.
No more "Concerts Nightly." A November 1898 look at the corner of the building from the Jack Tillmany collection.
The theatre entrance on Powell St. after the fire. The photo from the collection of Hamilton Henry Dobbins is in the collection of the California State Library.
Bad news travels far and wide. The Sydney Mail picked up the story of the Baldwin's demise. Thanks to Bob Ristelhueber for finding the item for a post on the BAHT Facebook page.
A c.1904 look at the replacement on the Baldwin site, the Flood Building. Thanks to Mark Ellinger for sharing the card. He notes that the Flood was "built by the heirs of James C. Flood, whose Consolidated Virginia Mine yielded the largest mineral strike in US history."
There
was a later Baldwin Theatre, a smaller venture, in the building just
east of the Flood Building. See the page on that [little] Baldwin Theatre for a photo.
Jack Tillmany's Arcadia Publishing book "Theatres of San Francisco" can be previewed on Google Books. It's available from Amazon or your local bookseller.
For a fine history of the neighborhood see Peter M. Field's 2018 America Through Time/Sutton Publishing book "The Tenderloin District of San Francisco Through Time." It's available through your local bookseller or Amazon.
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